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Getting into Canadian Hot Water

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Leaving Fort Nelson, British Columbia northbound we decided to drive all the way to Liard Hot Springs Provincial Campground. The highway veers to the west and winds through the Northern Canadian Rockies for the next 200 miles. It is a densely forested region and there are many scenic vistas where rivers meander through the wilderness only to disappear in the haze of the horizon hundreds of miles away.


About 22 miles outside of Fort Nelson, near the Steamboat Creek bridge, we spotted our second Black Bear. Our last bear sighting was outside of Jasper. BC on the Icefields Parkway. We are on high alert for wildlife on this leg of the ALCAN. The Milepost book and highway signage has numerous warnings for moose, bear, caribou and Stone sheep.


As we reach mile marker 357 we reach the Tetsa River Services and Campground. Advertised as a “must stop” on your Alaska Highway vacation and known for their world-famous cinnamon buns (said by thousands to be the best they ever had); well….they were closed! Bummer.


We continued onward, disappointed after looking forward to “the best cinnamon rolls in the galaxy”, I’m now eating a granola bar as we drive.


Crossing the Tetsa River bridge with a clearance of 17 feet over a metal grating roadbed, we near the Stone Mountain Provincial Park. Just past Muncho Lake Provincial Park we watch for caribou and Stone sheep. Stone sheep are frequently spotted in this area. They are indigenous to the mountains of northern British Columbia and southern Yukon. Darker and somewhat slighter than the bighorn sheep found in the Rocky Mountains, they are often mistaken for mountain goats, which are not found in this area. We spotted some on the cliff side as we drove by Muncho Lake; there were 5 sheep in a group walking on the rocks just to the right side of the road.


Just prior to arriving at the Liard River Hot Springs Campground we observed a juvenile caribou. Not an attractive specimen and rather awkward looking. At historic milepost 496 we turned into the park and found it was full for the night. Our option was the overflow parking lot across the highway, which we gladly took for $26 dollars Canadian ($19 USD).

After checking in we set up next to one another and decided to do a recon of the provincial park campground and hot springs facilities. Personally I was glad to be in the overflow parking area after looking at some of the campsites in the park because we had more room. The park is completely surrounded by an electrified fence to keep out the bears in the neighborhood and the main gate is locked from 10 PM until 6 AM. From the campground, we walked along the boardwalk out to the hot springs.


Liard River Hot Springs has long been a favorite stop for travelers on the ALCAN. We got set up and took a walk to check out the facilities. From Aboriginal Peoples to fur traders to gold prospectors, people have been attracted to the hot springs for a long time. The American Army built the first boardwalk and pool facility in 1942 during the construction of the Alaska Highway.

We walked back to our RV’s and decided to make an Earley dinner (Sean and Kathy’s last name, not a mis-spelling!) and come back later to soak in the hot springs after the afternoon crowd left. We built a campfire and the Earley’s prepared their classic camping culinary specialty of “Chili Mac” on the open fire in a dutch oven. It was worth the wait and I personally enjoyed two helpings. We even had enough to invite our RV neighbors Bob and Virginia from Oregon over for dinner. The smell must have attracted a neighboring black bear who wandered by across the creek just ten yards behind our camp. We all got a good look at it just walking by and never stopping…thankfully.



After dinner it was off to the hot springs to enjoy the warm water of the this natural wonder.

This hot spring is the second largest known thermal spring complex in Canada, with at least six springs feeding into different pools and streams that drain into the marsh. The resulting wetlands or swamps, instead of a creek or stream, doesn’t even freeze during the winter. Temperature of the water ranges between 36ºC (98ºF) at the Alpha Pool down to 12ºC (54ºF) along the boardwalk over the swamp.



It felt quite warm when you first entered the main pool but cooled as you moved through the pool. There are concrete benches in the middle of the pool to sit on and benches along the pool by the stairs from the deck. It is a beautiful facility with washrooms and changing rooms available, benches around the deck area, storage bins for your dry clothing and towels. We soaked about an hour enjoying the quiet pool environment and taking in the total hot spring experience. What a wonderful place to stop and take in and rest to recharge before getting back on the road.



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CBArt
CBArt
Jul 01, 2024

The drone images are fun! Great way of seeing the vast landscape.

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