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Well Monday, November 24 started early with Karen getting up at 2:30 AM to take her "special" shower before her hip surgery. I was out of bed by 3:00 AM and we were on the road for Dell Seton Medical Center at The University of Texas, Austin by 3:30 AM. Her check in time was 4:45 AM and we arrived early after parking the truck in the garage structure. Following the check-in process we were escorted to a pre-op room were she changed and began the lengthy pre-op procedures. By 7:00 AM they rolled her out to surgery and I retreated to the cafeteria to get some breakfast and later the truck to try and sleep. Karen was fortunate to find Dr. Koenig here in Texas. Dr. Koenig is an associate professor and serves as both the Division Chief of Orthopedics and the Director of the the Joseph Miles Abell Jr., M.D., Clinical Fellowship in Orthopaedic Surgery for the Dell Medical School Department of Surgery and Perioperative Care at The University of Texas at Austin. Dr. Koenig earned his medical degree from Baylor College of Medicine and his master’s in clinical sciences from Dartmouth Institute for Health Policy and Clinical Practice, where he began his work on patient outcomes and cost-effectiveness research. He completed a residency in orthopedic surgery at Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center and a fellowship in adult reconstruction at Stanford University Medical Center. While at Dartmouth, Dr. Koenig was one of the architects of GreenCare Pathways, a quality improvement initiative around total joint replacement, and led the Division of Adult Reconstruction at Dartmouth-Hitchcock Medical Center. I would periodically receive text messages on her status and by 10 AM I got the call from her surgeon Dr. Karl Koenig that she was in recovery, everything went as planned and that I could she her in about an hour after the anesthesia wore off. By 11:00 AM we were together again in a post-op room. She met with Dr. Koenig, recovery nurses and a physical therapist prior to being discharged at 3:30 PM. They wheeled her out to the covered parking garage and we loaded up using a portable step up to the passenger side of the truck. She had done this before two years ago so she knew the process. I think the physical therapist that escorted her out of the hospital was impressed with her technique based on his reaction to her method getting into the truck. We drove back to Smithville and arrived just after 5:00 PM. Karen used the walker to get to the trailer's steps and slowly walked up under her own power into the RV. It is nothing short of amazing that less than 8 hours earlier she was in surgery having her left hip replaced and now she was walking on that new joint! Now the real work begins. Her first week of rehab involves pain management and actively building up strength in the new hip. On Friday, November 28, the day after Thanksgiving, she has her first PT appointment in Bastrop. She has been walking around the RV using only a cane. Navigating is helpful having so many places to hold on to while she walks around the kitchen island or into the bathroom. Since her surgery, folks in the village have come by with meals, well wishes and are encouraging us with their thoughts and prayers. Karen's biggest need is someone to put on her shoes and socks. She ended up with a head cold upon her return home and is dealing with a cough and congestion, so she could use your prayers for healing in that area too. Today is Thanksgiving Day and we attended the RVICS village celebration with all our "Village People". We enjoyed good food and company together.

Once again home at the RVICS Village in Smithville we settled in unpacking and loading up the laundry baskets. We have spent the past week reliving some wonderful memories of our time away. Getting back to a regular routine has been an adjustment since returning from our whirlwind journey. Here are some of the closing highlights; Our last Saturday night aboard was spent at dinner with our shipmates: Skip and Karen from Nebraska and John and Sandy from Connecticut. We really enjoyed sharing many of our evening meals with their company. We hope to maybe visit them as we travel the country in our RV or perhaps see them on another cruise in the future. The Sun Princess docked in Fort Lauderdale, Florida on Sunday, November 15 at 6:30 AM. We had packed our suitcases the night before so we were ready to leave the ship after taking our showers and dressing. Earlier in the week Karen had booked bus transfer tickets from the port to the airport. Leaving the ship went quickly and once we cleared Customs and Immigration we boarded the bus for the short ride to Fort Lauderdale Airport. We ended up arriving almost 4 hours early for our flight. With the recently ended government shutdown and the possibility of flight cancellations or delays we wanted to make sure we had plenty of time to mitigate any complications. Because we were prepared for such issues, nothing came up to delay our return to Texas. Our flight was 2 hours and 40 minutes long and our neighbor Jon Ray picked us up at the Austin Airport shortly after our arrival. Since returning to Smithville we have had some appointments. Karen had a pre-op surgery appointment on Monday, November 17 in Round Rock just north of Austin that she needed to attend prior to her scheduled left hip replacement surgery on Monday, November 24. Yes, she is getting the other hip done this year, so we will be staying in Texas for the holidays. After seven weeks of rehab and physical therapy she should be back to normal. Karen is motivated to get back on her feet by January so we can do a scheduled scuba diving trip to Honduras. We appreciate all your good thoughts and prayers during the coming weeks. Our village friends will be around to help us if we need anything; it's a blessing they will bring us meals the first week! We will keep you all up to date as her healing progress moves forward.

I don't know how often you reflect on life. I find myself doing it more often now that I'm older and retired from my professional life. It has always been a part of my adult spiritual life to be thankful for the many blessings God has given me. I'm thankful for my faith in Christ and salvation, my wife and her unconditional commitment to me, my children and grandchildren. Thankful for my friends, some whom I've had since childhood. All of these things would certainly make anyone's life rewarding and full, but I'm feeling exceptionally blessed; blessed literally beyond measure. As we have traveled these past three and a half years, but especially these last five weeks, I've been struck by the age in human history I'm living in. What an amazing time to be alive and have all the resources I have. It's a blessing to be able to travel to far off places around this world with such ease and luxury; a privilege most other generations have never had available on this scale. In the last few weeks, I've seen ancient cities with their monuments, libraries, temples and theaters that were the wonders of the world in their time. But these cultures were lucky if they had working plumbing, drinkable water and a reliable source of food. They generally never traveled far from their city, state or region and had to worry about foreign conquesting armies throughout their history. The reality that this is the norm for most people in my generation is sobering at best. To see so many people with the resources and means on this ship living this way is humbling. To realize how so many more people in the world will never experience this much luxury and privilege makes me ask the question, "Why me Lord?" As I reflect on this simple question, the answer frankly is profound. We do nothing to deserve the family we are born into, the age in human history or place on the planet we are. I'm left with the only reasonable answer that I believe to be appropriate; "There by the Grace of God go I!" grace | ɡrās | noun 3 (in Christian belief) the free and unmerited favor of God, as manifested in the salvation of sinners and the bestowal of blessings. • a divinely given talent or blessing: the graces of the Holy Spirit. This perspective and belief is the operational foundation of my life, worldview and motivation in every human encounter. Our journey in life is just another opportunity to express God's unconditional love. As I encounter each server, I am poked with conviction and reminded of the need to continually be thankful for their presence and hard work. This ship has workers from all over the world and it has been a joy to get to know some of them, hear their stories and bless them with words of thankfulness and encouragement. I am compelled to make each one of them serving me feel valued and honored. . As Karen and I spend our retirement years traveling and enjoying this lifestyle, we are reminded to always look for opportunities to love and value everyone we meet and use our privilege to bless them. The cruise ship companies have a gratuity system in place to take care of all the principals like our cabin steward, dining room waiters and food prep staff. But everyone on this ship has made our time onboard an incredible pleasure. We are making an effort to remember others we have met so we can note them in our cruise review. This was our organic Bible study group onboard. Princess is the only cruise company that provides a venue to gather and we truly appreciate the time to study God's word together with brothers and sisters in the family of God. Karen and I are so very thankful for the past five weeks and the wonderful journey to see new places and meet new people created in the image of God!

We departed on the evening of November 4 traveling through the Straits of Gilbraltar from the Mediterranean Sea into the Atlantic Ocean. In the passage we could see the lights of Moracco in Africa. The Strait of Gibraltar, also known as the Straits of Gibraltar, is a narrow strait that connects the Atlantic Ocean to the Mediterranean Sea and separates Europe from Africa. The two continents are separated by 7.7 nautical miles ( 8.9 miles) at its narrowest point. The strait lies in the territorial waters of Morocco, Spain, and the British overseas territory of Gibraltar. Under the United Nations Convention on the Law of the Sea, foreign vessels and aircraft have the freedom of navigation and overflight to cross the strait of Gibraltar in case of continuous transit. Our next port of call on the itinerary was Cádiz an ancient port city in the Andalucia region of southwestern Spain. The home of the Spanish Navy, the port boomed in the 16th-century as a base for exploration and trade. It has more than 100 watchtowers, including the iconic Torre Tavira, which was traditionally used for spotting ships. On the waterfront is the domed, 18th-century Cádiz Cathedral, featuring baroque and neoclassical elements. Cadiz is famous for being one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Western Europe, founded by the Phoenicians around 1100 BC. It is also celebrated for its annual Carnival, which is one of the most famous and long-running in Spain. Additionally, the city is known for its historical importance as a major port for Spanish trade with the Americas, its beautiful golden-domed cathedral, its unique setting surrounded by the sea, and its role as a filming location famously appearing in the James Bond movie Die Another Day. When we arrived on the morning of November 5 at 7 AM we had pre-booked our Hop ON Hop OFF bus tickets for  Cádiz. The city is full of fascinating places so wherever you hop off and explore, you’re sure to see something amazing. Puertas de la Tierra are part of the old city walls and today mark the boundary between the city’s historic center and its more modern neighborhoods. "Puertas de la Tierra" translates to "Land Gate" or "Gates of the Earth" in English and refers to the monumental, 18th-century gateway in Cádiz, Spain. It was once part of the city's defensive walls and now serves as a symbol of the city, separating the old and new parts of the city. We took a break from the bus and hopped off at the golden-domed cathedral to see it up close and enjoy the energy of the crowd. The Cathedral of the Holy Cross over the Waters (Spanish: Catedral de Santa Cruz sobre las Aguas) is a Catholic cathedral in Cádiz, southern Spain, and the seat of the Diocese of Cadiz y Ceuta. The church was known as "The Cathedral of The Americas" because it was built with money from the trade between Spain and America. The 18th century was a golden age for Cádiz, and the other cathedral in the city called Santa Cruz was very small for this new age in the history of Cádiz. The new cathedral was built from 1722 to 1838. From Cádiz we departed for Santa Cruz de Tenerife (Canary Islands) with a scheduled arrival on Nov 7 at 9 AM. By the end of the day on Wednesday, I was beginning to feel a bit under the weather with a scratchy throat and some congestion. Not to be expected in a crowded environment like a cruise ship. To be pro-active I started drinking more water and limiting my exposure to crowds. After a second sea day my symptoms continued to worsen so I made an appointment to get checked out at the ship's medical center. I had my vitals checked and it was determined to be a head cold and not the flu or something more nefarious. I planned on staying ashore while we docked in the Canary Islands; a bummer but the right call. We had originally made a reservation to do a scuba diving excursion here. That was canceled and Karen ran into town instead to get some decongestant and cough drops to help me mend. Fortunately, we have eight sea days as we cross the Atlantic Ocean. Crossing the Atlantic by cruise ship involves a significant amount of time at sea, usually six to eight days, with a focus on relaxation and onboard activities rather than daily port visits. Passengers can fill their time with the ship's amenities, such as dining, entertainment, and leisure activities, or use the time to unplug and relax. The experience is a unique and relaxing way to travel that can include the romance of ocean liner tradition, stunning ocean views, and opportunities to connect with fellow passengers. Here are some of the activities and entertainment we've enjoyed: 1) Relax and unwind: Enjoy the freedom from port-day pressure, which allows for sleeping in, reading, and enjoying ocean views. 2) Onboard entertainment: Participate in various activities like live shows, concerts, dance classes, trivia, and movies. 3) Explore the ship: Use the time to discover all the ship has to offer, from pools and hot tubs to casinos and lounges. 4) Learn a new skill: Some cruises offer classes in areas like art or other hobbies. 5) Relax by the water: Spend time at pools, hot tubs, and lounge chairs, with some ships having adults-only areas for extra tranquility. Our onboard social connections: Connect with others: With more time at sea, you can develop relationships with fellow passengers and crew members, leading to a more social experience. We've participated in a daily Bible study while on the ship. Also, we have been seated with 2 other delightful couples in the dining room for dinner each night. We have enjoyed their company at our window table with an amazing view. Network and share stories: Meet other well-traveled individuals who are often enthusiastic about sharing travel tips and stories. We learned about the veterans ship board credit of $250 from one of our fellow travelers. Experience classic ocean liner tradition: For many, the voyage is about appreciating the history and romance of ocean travel. Sitting and taking in the sheer magnificance of the Atlantic from our balcony is beyond words and such a gift! Potential downsides and our experiences: Rough seas: The Atlantic Ocean can have rougher waters than other cruising destinations, particularly the North Atlantic in cooler months. Modern ships, especially those like the Sun Princess, are designed to handle these conditions with stabilizing wings, but it can still be an uncomfortable experience for some. We have not had a single day of bad weather on this crossing; what a blessing! Boredom: A long period at sea may become boring for those who prefer a more active vacation, although the amount of time needed for this varies from person to person. We have not experienced any boredom...none! Internet issues: Internet access is often slow and expensive, making a transatlantic cruise a good opportunity to disconnect. Our internet has been flawless, hence I've been able to post on our Blog. We are on day 6 of the crossing with two remaining days until we reach Fort Lauderdale. I can truly say the experience has been wonderful and would entertain doing it again in the future. November is a great time to make the trip and there are many options with other cruise ship companies from different departure ports in Europe.

When Karen and I started thinking about this trip our biggest concerns were packing, the length of our trip and the distance. The packing challenge was addressed after educating ourselves on the virtues of using only carry-ons. YouTube became our go to resource on types of luggage, clothing materials selection, like Merino wool, and packing cubes. Honestly, after what we have learned, we will almost always pack this way in the future with the only exception being a scuba diving trip.. The travel distance and time zone differences was another challenge all together. San Francisco to Istanbul is a 13 hour flights with 11 time zone changes. This turned out to be a huge issue for me when we arrived. It took days for my circadian rhythm to get back to normal. It didn't prevent us from doing any of the activities we planned, it just meant we were up earlier in the morning than usual and ready for bed earlier in the evening. So in an effort to minimize another long flight returning home and the time change back to Texas we entertained this crazy idea of taking a re-positioning cruise instead. For those not familiar with this type of cruise, a re-positioning cruise is a one-way voyage where a cruise ship moves from one home port to another, often to follow seasonal weather patterns or change its home base. They are typically offered at discounted rates and can include long itineraries with more days at sea, such as transatlantic and transpacific routes, providing unique travel opportunities. After doing our research we decided on the Sun Princess 15 day cruise from Barcelona, Spain to Fort Lauderdale, Florida. We were able to book a balcony cabin for the entire cruise at $2688 ($89.60 per person per day). For a little more than a return flight we got a relaxing 15 day cruise that provided our transportation, entertainment, a lovely cabin to live in and all the food anyone could ever wish to eat! We felt like we we getting such a great deal we opted to upgrade to the "Princess Plus" package that included wifi for one device each, their 15 drink per day package, specialty dining in two of the optional restaurants. It also included the gratuity charges which are typically added to your onboard account at the end of the cruise. The Princess Plus was $60 per person per day so we tacked on another $1800 for conveniences making the cruise total $4488. Still an amazing value at $149.60 per person per day for everything. In addition, we received $550 of onboard credit plus an additional veteran's onboard credit of $250 after speaking to another seasoned cruiser on board. $800 more for the spa and excursions! The boarding process was easy and seamless. Barcelona has a new cruising terminal that is expansive. We boarded the ship on November 1 at 1 PM and departed the port by 6:30 PM. With only carry-on luggage we were able to go directly to our beautiful starboard side balcony cabin midship. We unpacked and started exploring our new home for the next 15 days. The Sun Princess is the first of the PRINCESS SPHERE Class ships in the fleet and can carry 4320 - 5189 passengers. She has 20 decks and 1550 cabins. Completed in 2025 at a cost of 950 million EUROS (1 billion dollars U.S.) the ship is 1,132 feet in length and has a width or beam of 154 feet. The ship is the largest in their fleet at 177, 882 gross tons with a cruising speed of 22 knots (25 mph for you landlubbers). This is the panoramic view from our balcony. We have two chairs and a small table and hope to have some nice weather on the crossing to spend time enjoying it. This cross Atlantic cruise is about 85% of capacity but because of its size there appears to be plenty of space in the common areas like the eateries and pools. This is the view from deck 17 looking aft from the bow on the port side of the ship. It's for adults only and my happy place . It has its own bar, pool and hot tubs in front of the dome structure. It sits above the ship's bridge and offers some incredible view. We departed Barcelona around sunset and headed west on our first sea day, Tuesday, November 2. Cruising just off shore the Spanish coast, our first port of call on Monday, November 3 is Malaga, Spain. While waiting for our HOHO bus we had a great view of our ship the Sun Princess. Malaga is the international gateway to the Costa del Sol; we used the Hop ON Hop OFF bus again to see the highlights. We decided not to walk up to the Alcazaba, an old Moorish fortified palace which has stood guard over Malaga for nearly a thousand years, and stayed on the bus to see more sites. This current complex was begun in the 11th century and was modified or rebuilt multiple times up to the 14th century. It is one of the best-preserved alcazabas in Spain. This impressive building is undoubtedly the finest surviving example of a Moorish citadel in Spain. The Alcazaba is a palatial fortification built during the period of Muslim-ruled Al-Andalus. At the top of the hill is the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Our highest HOHO destination was the Castillo de Gibralfaro. Over a thousand years old, this imposing Moorish castle takes its name from a Phoenician lighthouse that was built on the site more than two millennia ago! Known locally as "El Cubo," this structure sits in the port and is recognizable for its vibrant, translucent panels. After touring on the bus we walked around the "Malaga cube structure". This iconic, colorful glass cube houses the Centre Pompidou Málaga, an outpost of the famous Paris art museum. The building itself is a work of modern architecture, designed by architects Juan Antonio Marín Malavé  and Guillermo Vázquez Consuegra , and has become a famous landmark in the city. From Malaga, Spain we cruised the 82 nautical miles to Gibraltar, the historic British port and fortress Rock of Gibraltar, arriving on Tuesday morning, November 4. We booked an electric-bike excursion around the Rock of Gibraltar for the afternoon. Gibraltar is a British Overseas Territory and headland on Spain's south coast. It’s dominated by the Rock of Gibraltar, a 426 meter high limestone ridge. First settled by the Moors in the Middle Ages and later ruled by Spain, the outpost was ceded to the British in 1713. Layers of fortifications include the remains of a 14th-century Moorish Castle and 18th century Great Siege Tunnels, which were expanded in WWII. We felt Gibraltar was worth visiting for its blend of British and Mediterranean culture, rich history, and natural beauty, especially using a two hour tour to explore on E-Bikes. They provided us an efficient means to cover our route around the entire headlands. In my opinion we avoided the traffic issues and navigated more easily than any other form of transportation available. Because of a 6:30 PM departure from Gilbraltar, we had to limit exploring to the bike trip only. Some of the cruisers took the tram up to the top of the rock. There they could visit Europe's only wild monkeys, the Barbary Macaques, that roam freely on the Rock. Our bike route took us around the entire territory through tunnels, up and down some steep and narrow roads shared with motorcycles, cars and even large trucks. Much of "The Rock" is covered with a network of tunnels connecting many of the former military installations and batteries. The material from these tunnels was used to expand the land for development including their airport. Europa Point defines the boundary between the Straits of Gibraltar in the Atlantic Ocean, and the Alboran Sea within the Mediterranean. Europa Point is Gibraltar's southernmost point, located at the southern extremity of the Iberian Peninsula and known for its panoramic views across the Straits of Gibraltar to Africa. It is home to several significant landmarks, including the Europa Point Lighthouse, the Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque, the Sikorski Memorial, and Harding's Battery. One of the most unique features of Gibraltar is it's airport. What is special about the Gibraltar Airport? Crossing the Runway! Many visitors to Gibraltar cross the international airport's runway to get into the city. It is one of the many unusual tourist attractions of Gibraltar. Only bike and pedestrian visitors are allowed to walk across the runway. We had to wait to cross while we watched an airplane take off right in front of us! Winston Churchill Avenue crossing the runway with the Rock in the background. After our two hour tour around Gilbraltar we returned our E-Bikes and walked back to the ship. It was another full day of sightseeing in this very unique and historical place.

We landed in Barcelona at 11:45 AM on October 30 after two legs of a flight. From Izmir we returned to Istanbul to clear immigration and customs before leaving for Spain. The Turks are amazingly efficient at moving people through the airport process. We had only an hour and 20 minutes before our second flight would depart and we got to our gate fine and our bags made it to our plane. Because we were flying a smaller carrier we had to check our carry-on baggage because you can only bring on board one carry-on item. The flight was about three hours but we gained two time zones and arrived in Barcelona that afternoon. Karen had booked tickets from the airport into the city on the Barcelona Aerobus. From the bus stop, we only needed to walk 6/10th of a mile to our hotel. Barcelona is very walk-able and we used the opportunity to look for a bank ATM for Euros and a restaurant that served Paella. Check-in wasn't until 3 PM so we dropped off our baggage and continued exploring the hotel neighborhood. We found a nice cafe and stopped to get a couple of cappuccinos and some pappas fritas to hold us until dinner. We also found, thanks to a recommendation by Margarita our hotel front desk hostess, a restaurant serving authentic Paella. We stopped at the El Cangrejo Loco (translated The Crazy Crab) in the Eixample District, two blocks from our hotel, where we made a reservation for 5 PM dinner. Our first dinner in Spain was wonderful. We started by ordering a liter of Red Sangria from our waiter Pedro. The restaurant offers many different forms of Paella but we decided to go with the traditional seafood version with shells and bones, which included prawns, fish, cuttlefish (octopus), mussels, clams and some kind of small variety of lobster, not much larger than the prawns. The special rice used for paella is Bomba rice, a short-grain Spanish rice known for absorbing a lot of liquid without becoming sticky or mushy. The most popular choice, also called "Valencia rice", is ideal because it absorbs two to three times its volume in liquid, meaning it can absorb the flavorful broth and spices without the grains breaking apart. It's also more forgiving and less likely to be overcooked. We thoroughly enjoyed our meal and toasted in memory of my mother. She would have so enjoyed our dinner that night. After dinner we walked. Most Spaniards eat later so the night life of Barcelona was just getting started. The area around our hotel had everything you might need from drug stores, small neighborhood grocery stores, delis, cafes and restaurants. The biggest downer is the traffic noise. Many restaurants and cafes have outside seating but either the noise or the smokers made these venues less desirable. One exception being the city streets blocked off from the major traffic for narrow delivery access and pedestrian traffic. This is where we found outside cafe dining in a relaxing and quiet setting with fewer smoking areas. October 31, Halloween Day. would be our only full day to explore Barcelona so we walked next door to the espresso cafe for two more cappuccinos and a chocolate Croissant before walking to the nearest Hop ON Hop OFF (HOHO) bus stop. We have been able to get a great perspective on large cities using these tour bus companies. The ticket includes headphones for the audio guide which covers the main historical features and information about the city. The tour allows us to 'hop off' when needed to explore favorite landmarks or find bathrooms (haha), saving our legs for the specific points of interest that are highest priority. Barcelona is massive and we would like to come back and spend more time here in the future. Karen and I would love to find a place for a month and experience more of the culture, food and history. Karen has wanted to spend time in a Spanish speaking country for an extended period of time to become fluent speaking Spanish. Not far from Barcelona is the country of Andorra. This is were my maternal grandmother was originally from before her family immigrated to Mexico. Andorra is a small, landlocked, independent European co-principality situated among the southern peaks of the Pyrenees Mountains and bounded by France to the north and east and by Spain to the south and west. It is one of the smallest states in Europe. The capital is Andorra la Vella. Andorra has traditionally had a strong affinity with the region of Catalonia in northern Spain. Andorra’s official language is Catalan (Spanish and French are also spoken); its institutions are based in Catalonian law, and a large proportion of the Spanish immigrants (or their descendants) in Andorra are Catalan. Andorra’s independence is traditionally ascribed to Charlemagne, who recovered the region from the Muslims in 803, and to his son Louis I (the Pious), who granted the inhabitants a charter of liberties. Charlemagne’s grandson, Charles II, granted Andorra to the counts of Urgel, from whom it passed to the bishops of Urgel. Andorra’s dual allegiance to two princes, one in Spain and one in France, originated in the late 13th century in a proprietary quarrel between the Spanish bishops of Urgel and the French heirs to the countship of Urgel. Andorra was subsequently governed jointly by representatives of the Spanish bishop of Urgel and of the French head of state, each of whom received an annual payment of a token tribute. This feudal system of government remained intact until 1993, when a constitution was adopted that greatly reduced the power of the co-princes and established separate executive, legislative, and judicial branches of government. The one major sight we had to see in Barcelona was the Basilica of Sagrada Familia. Almost everyone makes a trip to see this massive, ornate structure. Why is basilica La Sagrada Familia so famous? The 'Basílica i Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família', otherwise known as Sagrada Família, is a church under construction in the Eixample district of Barcelona, Catalonia, Spain. It is the largest unfinished Catholic church in the world. Designed by the Catalan architect Antoni Gaudí (1852–1926), in 2005 his work on Sagrada Família was added to an existing (1984) UNESCO World Heritage Site, "Works of Antoni Gaudí". On 7 November 2010, Pope Benedict XVI consecrated the church and proclaimed it a minor basilica. There were huge crowds all around the basilica. We thought about getting tickets to tour the inside but none were available on the only day we were in Barcelona. The Sagrada Família is not finished due to a combination of complex design, long-term funding challenges, the loss of original plans, and significant historical disruptions. The project was greatly slowed by the death of architect Antoni Gaudí, the Spanish Civil War, and the COVID-19 pandemic, which halted construction and damaged crucial models and drawings. The intricate nature of Gaudí's unique, non-repeating designs and the reliance on private donations for funding have also contributed to the century-long construction timeline. We walked around and got a pretty good view of the "Sagrada Família" which means "Holy Family" or "Sacred Family" in English. The name refers to the church's dedication to the Holy Family—Jesus, Mary, and Joseph. From here we walked back to the HOHO bus stop to the north of the basilica to find a quiet place for lunch before continuing our tour of the city. There were so many places we would have liked to stop and visit but just didn't have the time, hence the desire to return some day.

From Cappadocia we flew to the coastal city of Antalya. It is one of the largest cities in Turkey and the capital of Antalya Province, the fifth-most populous province. Recognized as the "capital of tourism" in Turkey and a pivotal part of the Turkish Riviera, Antalya sits on Anatolia's southwest coast, flanked by the Taurus Mountains. We arrived on Sunday, October 26 in the evening and took a taxi to the hotel. We decided to get a family-style hotel room so we could all be together. It had three separate sleeping areas behind the main door off the street. We took the downstairs room that shared a kitchenette and large common dining area with an enclosed courtyard. Richard and Portia took the upstairs bedroom with a separate bedroom for the boys. When we arrived we really didn't know what we had until the morning. It turned out the courtyard was open to the sky with a swing and outdoor furniture. The morning started with our typical Turkish breakfast fare of yogurt with add-ons, a variety of meats, cheeses and eggs, and of course olives. Turks have a deep cultural and culinary relationship with olives, which are an indispensable part of their cuisine especially for breakfast, and Turkey is one of the world's top producers of olives and olive oil. Antalya's rugged coastline is characterized by dramatic cliffs, rocky outcrops, and hidden coves, shaped by the Taurus Mountains descending to the Mediterranean Sea. This dramatic terrain is complemented by the region's clear blue waters and dotted with pine forests. For those looking to explore, the Lycian Way offers hiking routes along these rugged, scenic paths. This region is referred to as the Turkish Riviera, also known popularly as the Turquoise Coast, an area of southwest Turkey encompassing the provinces of Antalya and Muğla, and to a lesser extent Aydın, southern İzmir and western Mersin. This region of Turkey, located along the Mediterranean and Aegean coasts, is characterized by its climate, coastal geography, mountainous terrain, beaches, and numerous natural and archaeological sites. Extending over approximately 620 miles kilometers of shoreline, it is frequently visited by both domestic and international tourists. The coastline is regarded as a cultural trove that provides background on a fascinating mixture of factual and mythological individuals, conflicts and events, and has frequently been referred to in the folklore of various cultures throughout history. As such, it is regarded as the home of scholars, saints, warriors, kings, and heroes, as well as the site of numerous well-known myths. Mark Antony of the Roman Republic is said to have picked the Turkish Riviera as the most beautiful wedding gift for his beloved Cleopatra of Egypt. Saint Nicholas, who later became the basis of the Santa Claus legend, was born in Patara, a small town close to present-day Demre. Herodotus, regarded as the "father of History", was born in Bodrum (ancient Halicarnassus) in c. 484 BC. The volcanic mountains to the west of Antalya, near Dalyan, are believed to have been the inspiration for the mythical Chimera — the fire-breathing monster that Bellerophon slew. Among the archaeological points of interest are two of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World: the ruins of the Mausoleum at Halicarnassus; and the Temple of Artemis in Ephesus. Once everyone was ready, we all took a walk to view the ocean and explore the old section of the city. Classic old city narrow streets with pavers wind through to coastline restaurants, parks and a harbor. The city was formerly known as Attalia and was founded in around 200 BC by King Attalus II of Pergamon. Attalia was soon conquered by the Romans. Roman rule saw the city thrive, including the construction of several new monuments, such as Hadrian's Gate which we visited. Hadrian's Gate is a popular spot for tourists and even the occasional bride and groom wedding party. While the city itself only has modest elevation changes, Antalya has high mountains in all directions from its interior. With moisture being trapped, the local climate has high winter rainfall, while the interior bay setting results in very hot summers for a coastal city. Antalya is Turkey's biggest international sea resort on the Turkish Riviera. Large-scale development and governmental funding has made it a prime destination for tourists. Antalya is currently the fourth-most visited city in the world, trailing behind only Istanbul, London, and Dubai, attracting more than 16.5 million foreign visitors in 2023. On our last night all together, we enjoyed a delicious seafood dinner overlooking the Hıdırlık Tower, a Roman-era coastal tower in Antalya built around the 2nd century AD. Located at the edge of the Old Town (Kaleiçi) and Karaalioglu Park, it offers panoramic views of the Mediterranean Sea and has a history of possibly serving as a lighthouse, tomb, or fortification. Although the tower cannot be entered, its exterior can be viewed and the surrounding area is a popular spot for enjoying sunsets and exploring the nearby historical sites. Tuesday, October 28 and after twelve days together with the Schneider family, Karen and I said our farewells to our traveling family, departed the hotel at around 11 AM and took a taxi to the Antalya bus depot to catch our reservation on the Omio overland bus to Izmir, Turkey. This six hour journey would take us north through the mountains and pine forests to our last planned stop in Turkey, the ancient city of Ephesus near Izmir. Rather than fly, we decided to enjoy a six hour bus trip through the country to explore more of the interior. The bus was very comfortable and they handle these trips like a plane flight with food snacks on board. The biggest difference is there are no restrooms on board so we planned ahead. The journey overland by bus was quite comfortable. We made a couple of stops with about an hour break at a restaurant on the way to use the bathroom, shop, stretch and eat. Turkey is an amazing country with massive mountain ranges and extensive forested areas. In the valleys we passed through a collective of farms and orchards that provide the country with fruits and vegetables. We observed ancient orchards of olive trees with trunks the size of old oak trees. Oranges and other citrus trees are abundant along with the Turks favor fruit, the Pomegranate. Turks have a deep cultural and symbolic connection to pomegranates, which are seen as a symbol of fertility, abundance, prosperity, and good fortune. This significance is expressed through traditions like smashing the fruit at weddings and New Year's to bring good luck and abundance, as well as its use in art and design, and as a popular culinary ingredient. At the end of this day's journey we hired a taxi who delivered us to our hotel near the airport for our two night stay. The next morning we were scheduled to be picked up for our day long Ephesus tour. The airport hotel was the pick up location for our all day tour planned for Wednesday, October 29. Promptly the tour bus picked us up at 8:40 AM. We were in a group with eleven other guests, a driver and our tour guide. Our schedule included a visit to a classic Turkish pottery merchant, the ancient city of Ephesus, a stop for lunch then on to "the House of Mary" and the remains of the one of the ancient wonders of the world, the Temple of Artemis. The pottery craftsman shop was massive. It is the end of the season so the owner was cutting the prices in half to try and make a sale. They create elaborate designs and beautiful colors, but not our style. During the tour, the owner showed us what makes this pottery so unique. Historically, some Turkish ceramics, known as "moonstone" ceramics, may have gotten their glow from being baked with ground-up moonstones mixed into the clay or glaze. This technique creates a unique luminescence where the piece appears to glow from within, especially when light hits it. This is just one of seven separate rooms filled with items for sale. Our tour bus departed from here for the ancient city of Ephesus. These well-preserved ruins are located on the Aegean coast of modern-day Turkey, near Selçuk and Kuşadası. Once a major Greek and Roman city, it is now a UNESCO World Heritage site renowned for structures like the Library of Celsus and the Great Theatre, with an estimated population of over 200,000 at its peak. It's a historically significant site for both its Roman-era grandeur and its role in early Christianity. As with almost every place in Turkey, we are greeted by yet another keeper of the city. It's no different in Ephesus; cats are everywhere throughout the city! The goddess Nike is represented in Ephesus by a decorative marble relief on the Heracles Gate on Kuretes Street , dating back to the 2nd century AD. The winged goddess of victory is depicted holding a laurel wreath and a palm branch, a symbol of triumph. It's also believed that the folds of the fabric in this relief inspired the modern Nike company logo , the "Swoosh".  Do you see the Swoosh? In between these doorways stand four statues, goddesses representing the virtues of Celsus: Sophia, the goddess of wisdom; Episteme, the goddess of knowledge; Ennoia, the goddess of intelligence; and Arete, the goddess of valor . The main library in Ephesus, Turkey, is the Library of Celsus, a famous Roman building commissioned in the 110s CE to honor the Roman senator Tiberius Julius Celsus Polemaeanus. It served as a library and a mausoleum, and it was once the third-largest library in the ancient world. This is not the great theater of Ephesus. That structure near the entrance of the city is undergoing major renovations and not yet available to tour, but this smaller structure at the other end of the city was open. These street's are almost never empty, but we were visiting at the end of the season and only one cruise ship was in port this day. The population of ancient Ephesus peaked at around 250,000 people during the Roman period, making it one of the largest cities in the ancient world. At its height, it was the capital of the Roman province of Asia and ranked second in size only to Rome. Ephesus is biblically significant as a major center for early Christianity where figures like the Apostle Paul ministered, leading to the writing of the Book of Ephesians and the formation of a prominent church. Here's a list of some of the biblical figures and events that make Ephesus so significant: • Apostle Paul: Paul spent considerable time in Ephesus, using its strategic location to spread Christianity throughout the region. His ministry there was marked by miracles and significant growth, but also opposition from those who profited from idol worship. • Book of Ephesians: Paul wrote his epistle to the church in Ephesus to guide them on unity in Christ, spiritual warfare, and the mystery of the Gospel. •Timothy: Paul appointed Timothy to lead the church in Ephesus, and addressed him in the pastoral epistles, such as 1 Timothy, with instructions on church order and conduct. •Saint John: Christian tradition holds that John the Apostle wrote the Gospel of John while living in Ephesus. •Virgin Mary: According to legend, the Virgin Mary may have spent her final years in a house near Ephesus. • Book of Revelation: Ephesus is one of the seven churches in Asia to which Jesus sends messages through John, commending their endurance while urging them to return to their "first love". • Silversmiths' Riot: A well-documented event in the book of Acts recounts a riot incited by Demetrius, a silversmith who feared the Christian faith would hurt his trade of silver shrines to Artemis. • Burning of Scrolls: After witnessing the power of the Gospel, many who practiced magic in Ephesus publicly burned their scrolls, signifying the transformative power of faith over sorcery. Seeing Ephesus was such an amazing experience for us both. Just to walk where our first century fellow believers, brothers and sisters in Christ, once walked and lived 2000 years ago was simply mind blowing. From Ephesus we drove to Selçuk for lunch. Some of our group went to visit the legendary house where Mary lived in her later years and was cared for by the Apostle John. We opted out and rested at the restaurant and enjoyed an afternoon cappuccino. Our last stop for the day was the ruins of the Temple of Artemis. Temple of Artemis in ancient Ephesus, now in western Turkey, was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. The great temple was built by Croesus, King of Lydia, in about 550 BCE and was rebuilt after being burned by a madman named Herostratus in 356 BCE. The Artemesium was famous not only for its great size, over 350 by 180 feet, but also for the magnificent works of art that adorned it. The temple was destroyed by invading Goths in 262 CE and was never rebuilt. Little remains of the temple (though there are many fragments, especially of sculptured columns, now located in the British Museum). Excavation has revealed traces of both Croesus’s and the 4th-century temple and of three earlier smaller ones. Honestly, after Ephesus, it was underwhelming until you learn the rest of the story. Much of the temple's materials from the Temple of Artemis were repurposed for new constructions, including the Hagia Sophia in Constantinople and buildings in Ephesus, such as the Basilica of St. John and the Isa Bey Mosque. Other materials were used for lime production, and the remaining debris and rubble were likely reused in the construction of the Byzantine city at Ephesus. Even back then they recycled! After a full day of exploring we returned to our hotel to rest up for a new day of traveling. In the morning we would leave Turkey and head to Barcelona, Spain; the next chapter in this grand adventure!

This is the view from the landing outside our room at the Aren Cave Hotel in Göreme. We arrived on Thursday, October 23 from Istanbul to Nevşehir airport on Turkish Airlines. We were picked up by a local van transport and drove about thirty mintues to arrive in Göreme where we had a reservation to stay at the Aren Cave Hotel for the next three days. This area is well known for its fairy chimneys, eroded rock formations, many of which were hollowed out in the Middle Ages to create Christian churches, houses and underground cities. It is located in Cappadocia, an ancient district in east-central Anatolia, situated on the rugged plateau north of the Taurus Mountains, in the center of present-day Turkey. Göreme sits at the heart of a network of valleys filled with astonishing rock formations. Being a center of early Christianity, it also has the most painted churches, as well as hermitages and monasteries, in Cappadocia. The region had early contact with Christianity. The Acts of the Apostles reports that Cappadocian Jews were present in Jerusalem during the descent of the Holy Spirit on Pentecost (Acts 2:9), and the First Epistle of Peter mentions Cappadocia among the persecuted Christian communities of Asia Minor (1 Peter 1:1). In the 4th century, three Cappadocian theologians—Basil the Great, Gregory of Nyssa, and Gregory of Nazianzus—made important contributions to Christian thought in their writings, refuting Arianism and elaborating on the doctrine of the Trinity. After arriving at our hotel we walked to the center of town to find the office of a tour guide who was recommended to us by a waitress we met while traveling through Idaho from Washington this summer. We met her when we went out to dinner and got on the subject of our future trip to Turkey. She is also a travel agent and had recently been to Turkey and used the services of this tour guide while in Cappadocia. What a small world! Hami has a bike rental business but also takes visitors on hikes through the area. We hired him to guide our group of seven through the Red Valley hike in Cappadocia on Friday, October 24. This trail features a number of historic churches, excellent views of the entire area around Goreme and passes tea gardens where you can rest. The trail begins just north of Goreme. After passing over an initial hill, the trail that travels to Rose Valley begins close to a substantial rock formation filled with cut out homes. From there it is easy to work your way to Rose Valley before crossing the crest and descending Red Valley. If you make your way to the very top of the valley you reach the car park at the well frequented view point, but a number of trails will take you back down before then. Because of the make up of our group we started at the top of Table Mountain and walked down the 3 miles instead of up. Around the 4th century CE, Christians seeking refuge from persecution by Roman forces hid in the valleys and carved their dwellings and chapels into the soft volcanic tuff rock. People of Göreme, at the heart of the Cappadocia region, realized that these soft rocks could be easily carved out to form houses, churches, and monasteries. These Christian sanctuaries contain many examples of Byzantine art from the post-iconoclastic period. These frescoes are a unique artistic achievement from this period. The chimneys are a result of a geologic process that began eons ago, when volcanic eruptions rained ash across what would eventually become Turkey. That ash hardened into tuff, a porous rock, which was covered by a layer of basalt. By the end of the hike I was done for the day, but Karen and the rest of the group continued touring in the afternoon and visited the Kaymakli underground city. The number of underground cities in the Cappadocia Region is estimated to be between 150 and 200, with varying sizes. The majority of these rock settlements are constructed by carving soft tuff rocks downwards into the ground. The primary objective of their construction was to ensure the security of the inhabitants. The rooms are connected to one another through long galleries and labyrinth-like tunnels. The purpose of constructing low, narrow and long galleries is to restrict the mobility of the enemy. Underground City of Kaymaklı: The inhabitants of the village of Kaymaklı, whose ancient name is “Enegüp”, have constructed their homes near 100 or more tunnels of the underground city. Even today, villagers pass through these tunnels and utilize the appropriate places of the underground city as cellars, storerooms and stables. The underground city of Kaymaklı differs from Derinkuyu City in terms of both its plan and its establishment. Its passages are low, narrow and sloping. The number of storage rooms in such a limited area lends support to the hypothesis that a considerable number of people resided here. Currently, four floors have been unearthed, with the spaces concentrated around the ventilation shafts. The first floor of the underground city contains stables, while the second floor houses a single nave and two apses. In front of the apse is an altar, and on the sides there are seating platforms. The most significant areas of the Kaymaklı Underground City are located on the third floor. In addition to numerous storage areas, wineries and kitchens, the block of andesite with relief-texture found on this floor is of particular interest. The stone was not brought here from outside but was part of the andesite layer that was not uncovered during the process of hollowing. A total of 57 holes were carved into the surface of the stone for the purpose of crushing and grinding. Despite the fact that the entirety of the city has not yet been fully uncovered, and that only four floors have been discovered thus far, it is clear that Kaymakli is one of the largest underground settlements in the region. It is accepted as the widest underground city of Cappadocia, among the cities that have been explored. I rested in our room while they toured the underground city. I eventually spent time on our private patio balcony and wrote an update to the blog and enjoyed the quiet. Later we enjoyed another delicious Turkish dinner together on the patio of the Anatolia Kitchen restaurant down the street from our hotel. Saturday morning, October 25 we were up early. Richard, Portia and Silas were scheduled for a hot air balloon ride. We would stay with Owen and Eli while they got the opportunity to experience this excursion. Fortunately the weather was working in their favor. We decided to walk up to the top of the hill above the hotel with the boys and witness this amazing event from the ground. Just before dawn these lighter than air craft lifted off all around us. This was a bucket list dream for Portia, so we were happy they got to experience a balloon flight. The days prior to their flight had been canceled due to strong winds but their flight was a go. The number of balloons in the air at one time is truly remarkable to witness from our vantage point on the overlook. It looks serene and magical but not so on the ground. The traffic and the crowds made our viewing site less than ideal, but it was still wonderful to experience this event. Karen and I had a balloon ride scheduled for the next day on Sunday before we departed Capadoccia but alas, it got canceled due to rain. It was a bummer but we all had a great time visiting this magical land. We knew we wouldn't get to see and do everything but we were very happy we got to experience so much in the three days we were there.

Richard, Portia and the kids had scheduled a foodie tour on the Asian side of Istanbul for Wednesday, October 22. This would be another marathon day of walking and eating that I felt was not in my wheelhouse. So Karen and I sent them on their merry way and we planned a lighter schedule so we could rest and recover from two previous ambitious days of touring. We would have slept in but our circadian rhythm is still off, so we are waking up earlier than usual. Breakfast upstairs on the terrrace is where the day typically starts. We're enjoying the variety of Turkish breakfast fare. We discuss what our touring agenda would look like today. We were interested in seeing the Basilica Cistern of Istanbul. It is located near the Hagia Sophia, so not a terribly long walk from our hotel. We departed the hotel around 10:00 AM and took a back road up toward the Blue Mosque end of the Hippodrome of Constantinople. Back in the day, this was the sporting and social centre of Constantinople, capital of the Byzantine Empire. Today it is a square in Istanbul, Turkey, known as Sultanahmet Square. In AD 324, Emperor Constantine the Great decided to re establish Byzantium after his victory at the nearby Battle of Chrysopolis; he renamed it Nova Roma (New Rome). This name failed to impress and the city soon became known as Constantinople, the City of Constantine. Constantine greatly enlarged the city and one of his major undertakings was the renovation of the Hippodrome. It is estimated that the Hippodrome of Constantine was about 1,476 ft long and 427 ft wide. The carceres (starting gates) stood at the northern end; and the sphendone (curved tribune of the U-shaped structure, the lower part of which still survives) stood at the southern end. The spina (the middle barrier of the racecourse) was adorned with various monuments, including the monolithic obelisk, the erection of which is depicted in relief carvings on its base. The stands were capable of holding around 100,000 spectators. The race-track at the Hippodrome was U-shaped, and the Kathisma (emperor's lodge) was located at the eastern end of the track. The Kathisma could be accessed directly from the Great Palace through a passage which only the emperor or other members of the imperial family could use. Throughout the Byzantine period, the Hippodrome was the center of the city's social life. A total of up to eight chariots (two chariots per team), powered by four horses each, competed on the racing track of the Hippodrome. These races were not simple sporting events, but also provided some of the rare occasions in which the emperor and the common citizens could come together in a single venue. Political discussions were often made at the Hippodrome, which could be directly accessed by the emperor through a passage that connected the Kathisma with the Great Palace of Constantinople. We walked northeast towards the Hop ON Hop OFF bus tour site from the previous day. Across the trolly tracks we found the entrance to the Bascilia Cistern. The Basilica Cistern, or Cisterna Basilica, is the largest of several hundred ancient cisterns that lie beneath the city of Istanbul, Turkey. The cistern, located 490 ft southwest of the Hagia Sophia on the historical peninsula of Sarayburnu, was built in the 6th century during the reign of Byzantine emperor Justinian I. Today it is kept with little water, for public access inside the space. This subterranean cistern was called Basilica because it was located under a large public square, the Stoa Basilica, on the First Hill of Constantinople. Prior to its construction, a great basilica stood on the spot. It had been built during the Early Roman Age between the 3rd and 4th centuries as a commercial, legal and artistic center. Ancient texts indicate that the basilica cistern contained gardens surrounded by a colonnade that faced the Hagia Sophia. According to ancient historians, Emperor Constantine built a structure that was later reconstructed and enlarged by Emperor Justinian. Historical texts claim that 7,000 slaves were involved in the construction of the cistern. We completed our underground tour of the Basilica Cistern and returned back to the hotel to rest up. A nap was on my priority list. I skipped lunch to rest while Karen went for a walk to the bank to get more Turkish Lira, run errands, stop for lunch and Turkish coffee. I spent the better part of the afternoon resting. Later that day we all reconnected and returned to the Dubb Ethnic restaurant for our last dinner in Istanbul. Thursday, October 23 we would leave on Turkish Airlines for our next destination ..... Cappodocia, Istanbul. Cappadocia, a semi-arid region in central Turkey, is known for its distinctive “fairy chimneys,” tall, cone-shaped rock formations. Stay tuned for that adventure!

This is the former name of Istanbul from AD 330 (when it was given its name by Constantine the Great) until the early 20th century. During the early centuries of the Roman Empire, the western provinces were Latinized, but the eastern parts kept their Hellenistic culture. Constantine I (reign 324–337) legalized Christianity and moved the capital to Constantinople. Theodosius I (reign 379–395) made Christianity the state religion and Greek gradually replaced Latin for official use. The empire adopted a defensive strategy and, throughout its remaining history, experienced recurring cycles of decline and recovery. The Eastern Roman Empire, also known as the Byzantine Empire, was the continuation of the Roman Empire centered on Constantinople (Istanbul) during late antiquity and the Middle Ages. Having survived the events that caused the fall of the Western Roman Empire in the 5th century AD, it endured until the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire in 1453. The term 'Byzantine Empire' was coined only after its demise; its citizens used the term 'Roman Empire' and called themselves 'Romans'. Our second day would be an ambitious one visiting many of the landmarks of the Old City with our personal Turkish tour guide named Serkan. After another wonderful breakfast at the hotel we were met by Serkan in the lobby at 9 AM. We began walking up the street towards our first stop: Hagia Sophia. Hagia Sophia, officially the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, is a church serving as a major cultural and historical site in Istanbul, Turkey. Angels can sometimes be found in this ancient place of worship. Photo credit: Serkan It was formerly a church built by the Byzantine emperor Justinian I as the Christian cathedral of Constantinople between 532–537. The last of three church buildings to be successively erected on the site by the Eastern Roman Empire, it was completed in AD 537, becoming the world's largest interior space and among the first to employ a fully pendentive dome. It is considered the epitome of Byzantine architecture and is said to have "changed the history of architecture". From its dedication in 360 until 1453 Hagia Sophia served as the cathedral of Constantinople in the Byzantine liturgical tradition, except for the period 1204–1261 when the Latin Crusaders installed their own hierarchy. As the religious and spiritual center of the Eastern Orthodox Church for nearly one thousand years, the church was dedicated to Holy Wisdom. The church has been described as "holding a unique position in the Christian world", and as "an architectural and cultural icon of Byzantine and Eastern Orthodox civilization". After our tour of the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque we proceeded to the Blue Mosque on the other side of the Sultanahmet Park After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, Hagia Sophia served as a mosque, having its minarets added soon after. The site became a museum in 1935, and was redesignated as a mosque in 2020. According to Serkan many of the massive Byzantine era mosaics were covered over and not destroyed. But was this Christian symbol of the cross defaced when the cathedral of Constantinople was transformed into a mosque? The Blue Mosque, officially the Sultan Ahmed Mosque (Turkish: Sultanahmet Camii), is an Ottoman-era historical imperial mosque located in Istanbul, Turkey. It was constructed between 1609 and 1617 during the rule of Ahmed I. It attracts a large number of tourists and is one of the most iconic and popular monuments of Ottoman architecture. This mosque was built on the southeast side of the old Byzantine Hippodrome, near the Hagia Sophia (the most important mosque of the Ottoman Empire), and is a site of symbolic significance that allows it to dominate the city's skyline. The mosque's location was originally occupied by the Hippodrome's bleachers and its imperial box (where the emperor sat when attending events here). During excavations in the early 20th century, some of the ancient seats were discovered in the mosque's courtyard. Given the mosque's location, size, and number of minarets, it is probable that Sultan Ahmed intended to create a monument that rivalled or surpassed the Hagia Sophia. The mosaics and stained glass windows are exquisite. From the Blue Mosque we walked to a ceramic shop where the boys could try their hand at a Turkish tradition of throwing clay on a wheel. Then it was on to the Grand Bazaar of Istanbul fame. The Grand Bazaar (Turkish: Kapalıçarşı, meaning ‘Covered Market’; also Büyük Çarşı, meaning ‘Grand Market’) in Istanbul is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with 61 covered streets and over 4,000 shops on a total area of 7.6 acres attracting between 250,000 and 400,000 visitors daily. In 2014, it was listed No.1 among the world's most-visited tourist attractions with 91,250,000 annual visitors. The Grand Bazaar at Istanbul is often regarded as one of the first shopping malls of the world. Between the masses of people and the variety of merchandise sold, it was visual overstimulation. And like most shopping malls, I couldn't wait to leave! My legs were feeling the long day of walking and we were getting hungry. We needed to eat then get to the harbor to catch our 2:40 PM ferry tour of the Bosphorus so we grabbed a quick bite at a Doner restaurant on the way. Doner kebab or döner kebab is a Turkish dish made of meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Seasoned meat stacked in the shape of an inverted cone is turned slowly on the rotisserie, next to a vertical cooking element. The operator uses a knife to slice thin shavings from the outer layer of the meat as it cooks. The vertical rotisserie was invented in the 19th-century Ottoman Empire, and dishes such as the Arab shawarma, Greek gyros, Canadian donair, and Mexican al pastor are derived from this. Our Doner's were made from beef with tomato, lettuce and mayonnaise wrapped in a thin flat bread like a burrito. With time to board our ferry fast approaching we had to hustle past the spice market and a short cut through a mosque's courtyard to just make the ferry. We were literally the last to get on the boat; phew! We could now rest our weary legs and enjoy a two hour cruise up the Bosphorus. It was a delightful cruise and we enjoyed the city views from the water. The Bosporus or Bosphorus Strait is a natural strait and an internationally significant waterway located in Turkey which is straddled by the city of Istanbul. The Bosporus connects the Black Sea to the Sea of Marmara and forms one of the continental boundaries between Asia and Europe. It also divides Turkey by separating Asia Minor from Thrace. It is the world's narrowest strait used for international navigation. The Rumeli Fortress is a medieval structure with the largest towers of its time located near the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge. Our cruise took us up the strait past the Büyük Mecidiye Mosque on the European side near the Bosphorus Bridge. We turned around to return back to the harbor after passing the Rumeli Fortress. Fatih Sultan Mehmet began construction of the fortress in March 1452, completing it in August of the same year. Its purpose was to control ships passing through the Bosphorus. Historical sources mention that during its construction, 300 craftsmen, 700-800 labourers, and 200 coachmen, boatmen, and transporters were involved. After the conquest, the fortress lost its importance and was repurposed as a prison in the 16th century. By the time we returned to the harbor and disembarked the ferry it was getting late. We still needed to catch the Hop ON Hop OFF bus at stop 11 to get closer to the hotel. By the time we made it back I was totally spent. Tuesday, October 21 we walked 4.85 miles (12,233 steps and climbed 9 flights of stairs). I was so exhausted I passed on dinner and got to bed early. Two straight days totaling over 9.25 miles had taken its toll. I would need a lighter workout for day three.

Our first meal was two hours into the flight. I enjoyed the Penne pasta and Karen had the butter chicken. The meal was remarkably good for airline food. We departed SFO at 7:30 PM on Saturday evening (October 18, 2025). the flight was about 70% full and Karen and I had seats on the aisles in the center section hoping to have an open seat in the middle but no luck. Karen eventually exchanged her seat with the gentleman in the middle and we sat together for the majority of the flight. Owen and Eli were seated in front of us with the empty middle seat we were happy to have. They did great on this long flight playing video games, watching movies, eating and napping. Our entourage all safe and sound on the ground in Istanbul's massive airport. We arrived at 5:45 PM on Sunday, October 19th and caught our shuttle transportation to the downtown area about 45 minutes away. We arrived at the charming Darussaade Hotel in Istanbul, checked in and decided to walk around the local area to find a place to eat. We discovered Dubb Ethnic restaurant and were not disappointed. The delicious food that we all shared "family style" included a variety of Turkish spreads with bread, a massive double kebab platter finished with Turkish baklava and chai tea. The owner likes to put on a cooking show preparing some of the dishes outside next to the street. This is the street view from our room. This is not a walkway but the narrow street driven by taxis, delivery trucks and buses. After dinner we walked back to our hotel to "attempt" sleeping. This would be the greatest initial challenge for all of us. I used my cellphone white noise app to drown out the ambient street noise. People here eat late and stay up late. We will need some time to adapt to this new circadian rhythm and cultural norm. Monday morning breakfast was early and we all enjoyed quite an extensive array of traditional Turkish breakfast items that included a variety of cheeses, breads and spreads. Yogurt and rice pudding were available along with fresh fruits. Eggs were available but no bacon or sausage due to the Muslim nature of the country. Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, constituting the country's economic, cultural, and historical heart. With a population over 15 million, it is home to 18% of the population of Turkey. It is a city on two continents; about two-thirds of its population live in Europe and the rest in Asia. Istanbul straddles the Bosphorus—one of the world's busiest waterways—in northwestern Turkey, between the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. Istanbul's strategic position along the historic Silk Road with rail networks to Europe and West Asia and the only sea route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean have helped foster an eclectic populace, although less so since the establishment of the Republic in 1923. Overlooked for the new capital during the interwar period, the city has since regained much of its prominence. The population of the city has increased tenfold since the 1950s, as migrants from across Anatolia have flocked to the metropolis and city limits have expanded to accommodate them. Most Turkish citizens in Istanbul are ethnic Turks, while ethnic Kurds are the largest ethnic minority. Art festivals were established at the end of the 20th century, while infrastructure improvements have produced a complex transportation network. Hagia Sophia, officially the Hagia Sophia Grand Mosque, is a church serving as a major cultural and historical site in Istanbul, Turkey. Our first full day, Monday October 20, would be spent getting an overview of the city. To do this we purchased tickets for two days on the Hop On Hop Off Red (HOHO) bus that would depart Sultanahmet Square near the Hagia Sophia Mosque about 4/10th of a mile walk from our hotel. This two day HOHO ticket also included a ferry ride admission to cruise up the Bosphorus. The HOHO bus has 11 stops. The bus stops at each location and a new bus arrives every 45 minutes. Stop 1: Sultanahmet Square, start of the tour. Stop 2: Galata Bridge Stop 3: Tophane  - we got off for a brief bathroom break and coffee at Starbucks Stop 4: Port Stop 5: Dolmabahce Palace, one of the most popular palaces in Istanbul. Stop 6: Naval Museum, here I would recommend you get off and spend at least 1 hour. The museum contains a large collection of maritime and military artifacts. Admission is included in the HOHO ticket. Just remember that this museum is closed on Mondays. Stop 7: Beylerbeyi Palace - we stopped for lunch on the Asian side of Istanbul across the Bosphorus Bridge. Stop 8: Akaretler / W Hotel Stop 9: Taksim Square, here I recommend you to get off and spend at least 1-2 hours walking along the famous Istiklal Street, visit the church of St. Anthony of Padua and the Madame Tussauds Wax Museum. Stop 10: Sishane - we stopped here to visit the Galata Tower, Stop 11: Egyptian Spice Bazaar in Istanbul, here you could also get off and spend at least 1 hour in the bazaar, this very famous place is near Eminonu Square and is ideal to experience the lively atmosphere of the locals. Sultanahmet Square: End of the tour. Tophane Square, with the Tophane Barracks and the Nusretiye Mosque. The Galata Tower is a medieval Genoese tower in the Galata part of the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul, Turkey. A symbol for the spirit of İstanbul that has adorned the lines of several authors and poets, Galata Tower is without doubt the number one landmark to see in İstanbul. But, you might ask, what is it that is so special about this Tower that we encounter in almost every shot of İstanbul? The Tower, whose history spans nearly 1,500 years, was commissioned by the Byzantine emperor Justinian the Great in the 6th century as a lighthouse, which would then serve as a strategic watchtower. But little remained of its Byzantine glamour when it was majorly damaged in a huge fire. In 1348, the Genoese built a new tower, this time from rock, at the very same place and named it the “Tower of Christ.” When İstanbul was conquered on May 29, 1454, Galata Tower fell into the hands of the Ottoman Empire. Hard hit by the earthquake of 1509, the Tower had undergone a repairment by 1510. The Tower, which suffered from several consecutive fires, has been renewed a few times, its function changing each and every time. Built as a watchtower at the highest point of the mostly demolished Walls of Galata, the tower is now a museum, and a symbol of Beyoğlu and Istanbul. A wonderful first full day completed with 7,832 steps for 3.54 miles of walking. After another excellent Turkish dinner that completed the evening we all returned back to the hotel for bed.

This is our TURO ride from Will Xu. We picked it up at the SFO parking garage We rented his 2011 Honda Accord back in 2023 and decided to use his vehicle again. Gosh, we just got back to Smithville, TX and it's time to leave again. However, this time without the fifth wheel. International this time not domestic, well kind of. We've been packing and repacking since we got back to Smithville trying to re-train our old habits and limit our luggage to carry-on only. Our trip this time began in California for a week to attend a wedding on Friday October 17. We left on Friday, October 10 from Austin, Texas arriving in San Francisco so we can have a whole week to visit with family and friends. Our base was in Healdsburg at Greg and Lorri Herrick's BnB barn. Karen had a busy schedule already planned to see friends and a day at the Total Concepts office to help out while we're in town. I attended my last Coast Guard Auxiliary meeting in Petaluma and made arrangements to transfer to the Austin, Texas flotilla. Portia, Eli, Silas, Owen and Karen at our boarding gate in SFO on departure day for Turkey. After the wedding on Friday we returned to the San Francisco airport (SFO) to return our Turo rental car before leaving on Turkish Airlines for Istanbul, Turkey. We will be traveling with Richard and Portia Schneider and their three sons, Eli (age 6), Owen (age 10) and Silas (age 12) for two weeks. Our itinerary includes three days exploring the city of Istanbul before flying to Cappadocia, Turkey for another three days, then on to Antalya, Turkey on the Turkish Rivera for three more days. We will end our trip with a bus ride to Izmir, Turkey so we can visit the ancient city of Ephesus. With the flight to Turkey about 13 hours long we decided to explore another option back to the US. and will travel back to the U.S. by cruise ship instead of flying. We found a great deal on Princess Cruise Lines, a 15 day repositioning cruise out of Barcelona, Spain. So on October 30 we will fly out of Izmir, Turkey to Barcelona so we can board the Sun Princess for a November 1 departure. I wonder if they celebrate Halloween in Spain? We are planning on taking a tour of Barcelona on the Hop on, Hop off bus to maximize our time on Friday, October 31. This is the first time we are traveling with carry-on luggage only. Karen tried really hard to make it work. We have been watching a number of YouTubers on the subject and think we've got a system that will work. We've purchased a number of Merino wool items which are easier to clean, odor resistant and work well in hot or cold environments. The formula is 5 tops ( long/short sleeve mix), 4 bottoms (long pants/shorts mix), 3 layering pieces (light sweater/rain jacket/thermal jacket), 2 pairs of shoes and 1 optional item. The key is to keep a variety of colors that so you can mix different outfits from your packed ensemble. Socks and underwear for 5 days is not included this formula but goes without saying. Our ride to Turkey on Turkish Airlines from SFO is a 13 hour trip to Istanbul. Time to board! The next post will be from our hotel in Istanbul where east meets west. Ta-ta for now!